Cyclades Trip September 2024 - Part 1

10 September, Tuesday  

We set sail from Bodrum with Captain Teo and his partner after completing the exit formalities. The wind was in our favor, and we arrived at Vathy Marina at Kalimnos in just two hours, powered solely by the wind. After completing the entrance formalities, we went to visit the famous Agios Savvas Monastery and then settled in for the night at the marina.

11 September, Wednesday  

We started early at 6:30, heading towards Donousa, a small island 20 miles southeast of Naxos. It was a long journey of about 60 miles, taking us 8 hours with a mix of engine and sail power. When we arrived, we anchored in a beautiful bay on the northwest of the island. The water was crystal clear, the sea calm, and the weather sunny and warm. At 6 PM, it was time for happy hour with a glass of Martini Bianco, followed by a refreshing dip in the sea and a stunning sunset behind Naxos.

12 September, Thursday  

We set sail for Naxos. Later in the afternoon, our friends Robert and Fehmi joined us. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Meze, a charming restaurant along the waterfront. Afterward, we strolled through the enchanting streets of the city center, lined with colorful shops.

13 September, Friday  

The wind was quite strong today, so we decided to stay in Naxos and explore the island by car. Our first stop was Prokopis Beach on the west, but the strong west wind made it too blustery. We decided to explore the east coast instead and stopped at Chalki, an old, picturesque village, for coffee. Our next stop was Moutsouna Beach, where the sea was fantastic—crystal clear, serene, and uncrowded. We had lunch at Alos, a nice taverna and hotel in the area, a bit pricey but well worth it. We noticed that there are no sunbeds or umbrellas on many of the beaches. Alos, being a hotel, had a few sunbeds for its guests, and we were fortunate to enjoy them. In the evening, we climbed about 200 steps to the village of Apiranthos, though it wasn't as impressive as expected. We ended the day with a drink at a cozy café by the port.

14 September, Saturday  

We started our day at Pavtelov Café on the port, enjoying granola and coffee. Again, the wind was too strong for sailing, so we decided to rent a car and explore more of the island. Our first stop was the small village of Kinidaros, where we hoped to have lunch at Vasilarakiou, a famous meat restaurant. Unfortunately, it didn’t open until 2 PM, so we returned to Chalki for lunch. Later, we headed back to Moutsouna Beach for another refreshing swim.

15 September, Sunday  

The weather finally improved today with a mild morning breeze, so we prepared to leave Naxos. After our usual breakfast at Pavtelov Café, we sailed toward Naoussa Port on Paros, a distance of about 9 miles. With a lovely northeast wind of 12-17 knots, we had to jibe four to five times to reach our destination. After four hours of sailing, we reached Paros and luckily found a berth at the port. We relaxed with a swim at a nearby sandy beach and had dinner at a chic Italian restaurant, Alpino, where we enjoyed a delicious meal while watching the sunset. Afterward, we took a walk through the lively streets of Paros. The atmosphere was vibrant, and the restaurants were full, even on a Sunday night. We made a reservation at Barbarossa, the most popular restaurant in Paros, for the following night.

16 September, Monday  

We rented a car again to explore more of Paros, starting our day with coffee and granola at Meltemi Café. Our first stop was Kostos, a small village, but there wasn’t much to see. Next, we drove to Lefkes, a more picturesque village where we enjoyed coffee and pastries. Then, we headed to Golden Beach on the west coast, a 750-meter-long sandy beach with sunbeds and parasols. The sea was calm but had small waves—not as serene as Naxos, but still enjoyable. After a swim, we discovered a surprise at the hotel Poseidon: a jacuzzi, the perfect way to end our beach day. In the evening, we dined at Barbarossa, where a soprano and tenor performed classics like Carmen and La Donna è Mobile. Although the entertainment was great, the service was slow. After waiting an hour for only the starters, we canceled the rest of our meal and ended the night with a drink by the shore.

17 September, Tuesday  

We left Paros around 10 AM, with no wind and calm seas. We sailed 25 miles around Patmos and Antiparos, reaching the peaceful Feneromeni Bay in the Despotiko island by late afternoon. The bay was magnificent, with a small chapel on the southern edge and a serene beach. The sea was calm, reflecting the full moon beautifully. It was a magical night—just us, the moon, and the stillness of the sea.

18 September, Wednesday  

We woke up to a tranquil morning in the bay, where the sea was like glass. After an early swim, we set sail for Sikinos, about 18 nautical miles away. A strong south wind picked up as we sailed, and we reached Sikinos by 2 PM. However, we didn’t find a good mooring spot at the port, so we continued to Folegandros. After waiting for an hour and a half for the ferry to leave, we finally moored at the port. It was worth the wait since we finally had access to electricity and water after three days. However, we needed to vacate by 9 AM the next morning to make room for the returning ferry.

19 September, Thursday  

Today, we sailed to Rema Bay in Kimolos, a journey of about 22 miles with favorable winds. We arrived around 2 PM, and the bay greeted us with a quaint village and an interesting rock formation with a tunnel running through it. We took the dinghy through the tunnel and enjoyed our daily swim under the almost-full moon.

20 September, Friday  

The sea was fantastic this morning, so we had a long swim before breakfast. Our next destination was Milos, 12 miles away, where we arrived after a leisurely four-hour sail. After docking at Milos Port, we dined at Nastos Fish Restaurant, savoring grilled grouper and a delicious profiterole dessert. We explored the island center, Plaka, before returning to the boat.

21 September, Saturday  

We planned to visit the Kleftiko Caves today, famous for their spectacular rock formations. However, the strong north wind made it difficult to sail there, so we rented a motor boat instead. Kleftiko was breathtaking—its caves and rock arches were truly nature’s miracles. After an hour of marveling at the scenery, we returned the boat and spent the afternoon at Paleohori Beach. It was the last day of our sailing trip with Robert and Fehmi, who were flying back to Geneva the next day.

Now, I’m 230 miles from home and preparing to sail back to Turkey with Captain Teo. But before heading home, I plan to meet my beloved wife, Selin, in Patmos and visit a few more of the Dodecanese Islands.