Part 2: Return from Cyclades/Dodecanes

Cyclades Trip - The Return Journey

23 September, Monday  

Yesterday, we wrapped up the first leg of our sailing journey with Robert and Fehmi, who departed Blue Joy and caught the ferry to Athens. With Captain Teoman and his partner Aybige now aboard, we prepared for the next stage of our adventure. Due to strong north winds, we decided to stay in Milos for the day. Today, however, we’re setting off towards Patmos, where Selin and her mother will be joining us. The wind is still blowing around 20 knots from the side, so we're using both the engine and sails. We've got 64 miles ahead of us, with plans to reach Koufonisi—our halfway point to Patmos—by 6 p.m. for an overnight stay.

As we approached Koufonisi, the wind picked up even more, but we were fortunate to find a berth in the port. The harbor master was very helpful, providing us with a lazy line. Tonight, we’re dining aboard the boat, followed by a delightful cheesecake and coffee at a cozy beachside café to the right of the port. It’s starting to get chilly in the evenings. Oh, and by the way, today I became a grandpa—Hallelujah!

Milos to Koufonisi

24 September, Tuesday 

Today, we're heading to Patmos, about 56 miles northeast. The weather forecast suggests mild northern winds for a couple of hours, followed by smooth sailing. We expect to arrive in Patmos around 4-4:30 p.m. Luckily, we managed to snag the last available berth in the port, complete with electricity and water. Selin and her mother will be joining us tonight.

25 September, Wednesday  

We rented a car today to explore the southern beaches of Patmos. Our first stop was Sipsala Beach, but it wasn’t very impressive—no sunbeds and the sea wasn’t great. So, we moved on to Petra Beach, where we enjoyed a light lunch at the lovely Flisvos taverna. Afterward, we took a swim. The sea was calm but not very clear. Tonight, we’re dining at Tsipouradiko, a seaside restaurant that’s famous for its shrimp pasta. We had a fantastic meal at a very reasonable price!

26 September, Thursday  

We kept the car today to explore the northern beaches, which turned out to be much more scenic. Our first stop was Livadi Gerena, a beautiful nudist beach with gorgeous waters. Although there were no sunbeds, the natural shade from trees made it perfect. There’s a charming taverna overlooking the bay, and the view was stunning, with boats anchored in the distance. 

Our next destination was Kombos Beach. It wasn’t as nice as Livadi, but it had sunbeds and a taverna at the right end of the beach. We ended our day at Agriolivado Beach, but it wasn’t particularly exciting. 

In the evening, we returned to Skala, the main port, and had dinner at a Greek restaurant at the far end of the village, next to an Italian gelato shop. If you want to dine there, be sure to arrive before 7:30 p.m. The seafood was excellent, and the prices were very reasonable. On our way back to the boat, we came across some elderly Greek musicians playing in a nearby restaurant—such a fun and unexpected experience!

27 September, Friday

We initially planned to visit Akri today, but with a strong tempest expected on Monday, we revised our itinerary. Instead, we headed to Lipsi, skipping Leros. We had favorable side winds, and we found a well-protected bay on the southern part of the island. After anchoring, we took the dinghy ashore for a snack at the Delila restaurant. The food wasn’t our favorite, but the restaurant had pleasant music and a nice ambiance. The beach was sandy with crystal-clear water. Tonight, we’re staying in the bay and having dinner on board after our usual happy hour.

28 September, Saturday  

With a big storm expected on Monday, lasting through Wednesday, we decided to end our trip earlier than planned. We set off for Kalimnos to complete the customs formalities. The sea was calm the entire way. After finishing the paperwork, we enjoyed a nice dinner at Manyas restaurant, located at the port. Tomorrow morning, we’ll make an early start to head for Bodrum and complete the entry formalities.

29 September, Sunday  

We started early today to avoid the strong winds forecasted for later. The scenery as dawn broke was spectacular. After a peaceful two-hour cruise, we arrived at Turgut Reis in Bodrum. The formalities took about 20 minutes, officially marking the end of this year’s Greek adventure.

I’m already looking forward to next year’s trips!